As Etihad Airways wins Best Business Class at the coveted annual World Airline Awards, Robert Ditcham takes to the skies to experience the service and amenities for himself I was strapped in and about to spend 14 of the next 24 hours whistling halfway across the world and back at 41,000 feet. Normally when I fly, I mentally prepare myself for the stuffy, confined atmosphere, tasteless meals and sleepless nights.
But I had more hope for this journey - the six-foot, one-inch grey and turquoise cocoon that was to provide my bed, dinner table and entertainments for the day, and the service that came with it, has just been voted the world's best in a poll of 16 million regular airline passengers. In the cutthroat world of aviation, Etihad Airways, the UAE's national carrier, has beaten its fierce rivals to the top spot in the business class category of the highly coveted annual World Airline Awards, run by Skytrax, a UK-based consultancy.
In 2007, the airline was 10th on the list and it leapt to fifth last year. Peter Baumgartner, Etihad's chief commercial officer, said the airline's jump from 10th to first in the business class category in just two years reflected the company's "substantial investment" in improvements. The bar had been set high and I would have plenty of time during my seven-hour flight to Dublin, and the seven-hour return to Abu Dhabi later that evening, to judge whether the praise was justified.
To analyse the service fully, I cast my mind back to 6.15 that morning when the arrival of an Etihad limousine driver at my door signalled the start of my journey. The door-to-door pick-up service meant I could tick the first box in my list of things to expect from a leading airline's business class service. The chances of a taxi driving past my Manaseer flat at that time of the morning were slim. Finding one that would actually stop and take me where I wanted to go was almost out of the question.
Being picked up in a comfortable Chevrolet Caprice with leather seats, rear LCD screens and a driver who didn't spit out of the window when stopped at red lights was a pleasant way to start the journey, and one less headache to deal with. The driver informed me that the pick-up service covered the entire country. What if I lived in Ajman or Ras al Khaimah, I asked. "All of the UAE," he answered proudly.
The next test was the flight check-in, for me the most tedious part of air travel. The frantic search for a trolley and the hours spent waiting in line contemplating what I've forgotten to pack often seem enough to put me off overseas travel altogether. As a business class passenger, however, I pulled up to a separate "premium" check-in lounge at Abu Dhabi International Airport's two-month-old Terminal 3.
A porter and check-in assistant greeted me at the limo and escorted me to the eight check-in aisles, which were set in a spacious wood-panelled room dotted with leather sofas and flight information screens. The only thing the room lacked was a bathroom, as one desperate passenger soon discovered. After less than 10 minutes, I had successfully negotiated check-in, passport control and security, leaving plenty of time to explore Etihad's fabled business class lounge. It was directly opposite the security check area - sparing me the usual hassle of tracking down the airport seating area - and nestled between the fittingly luxurious retail offerings of Hermès and Fendi. A smiling face greeted me at reception and led me to the concierge. Normally loath to let my luggage out of sight, I was reassured to see that here, the bags are stored in individual lockers. I wandered down a tastefully decorated corridor and took a longing peek into the first class lounge before entering the main business class seating area. My first impression was of how busy it was. The room can accommodate 200 people at a time, and it appeared to be nearing capacity. But rather than containing a single mass of chairs and tables, the lounge was subtly divided into different zones. An area with dozens of sofas seemed appropriate for quiet reading and relaxation, a partially enclosed TV den was available for those catching up on the news headlines, and chairs with work tables were geared to those using their laptops. Although the lounge provided free wireless internet and several desktop computers, there were no power points for those with drained laptop and mobile phone batteries - an essential requirement for those on long business trips. Ryan McKeag, the head of the Abu Dhabi hub at Etihad, said 14 power points would be installed starting from next week. But work was the last thing on my mind. In need of rest after wolfing down a plate of scrambled eggs, hash browns, fried mushrooms and veal bacon (salads and cereals were available for the more health conscious), I sought a private place to relax in peace, far from the murmur of conversation. McKeag directed me to one of two small "quiet rooms" where guests could put their feet up and have a snooze. Other areas included a meeting room with video conferencing facilities, a smoking room and two prayer rooms. A room full of toys had been set up for children, although the PlayStation 3 and Nintendo Wii would have been just as popular with parents. McKeag said eight trained nannies will soon be introduced to look after young children, giving Mum and Dad a break from their parental duties. Other upcoming additions to the lounge will include a comment and suggestion book. "We run this area like a hotel and we want people to enjoy their stay with us," McKeag said. I decided to grab a quick massage at the Six Senses Spa before take-off. The list of treatments included massages for the scalp, feet, face and back. My digits weary from copious note-taking, I opted for a hand massage that, according to the blurb, would rejuvenate my aching hands and arms through precise stretching and deep massage techniques. Considering Abu Dhabi's position as a transit hub between East and West, the opportunity for rest and recuperation between long flights is obviously a major draw. "It makes all the difference to long flights," said Lucinda Wright from Australia, who had just completed the 14-hour Melbourne to Abu Dhabi leg of her journey to Dublin. "I now feel completely refreshed and ready for another seven hours." One of several lounge assistants informed me that flight EY41 was ready to board. At the gate, I swept through a business and first class boarding gate without having to queue. After being directed to seat 6C and stowing my hand luggage, I took stock of my surroundings. The seat was comfortable, the grey and turquoise upholstery was quite pleasant on the eye, and I had a certain amount of privacy. I noted, however, that there was a lack of storage space for personal belongings such as travel documents, glasses and reading material. Soon after take-off, the food started arriving. First up, an appetiser described as an orange and fennel custard and served in a small china cup with a tiny spoon. Not ideal plane food, I thought, as a blob of runny custard spilt down my front. For my main meal, I was advised by Kieran Bandodkar, the cabin's food and beverage manager, a new position on Etihad flights, to opt for prawns marinated with zaatar, followed by grilled monkfish in saffron and lime sauce with poached leeks and steamed potatoes. Overall, the food was tasty, light and well presented. If I got hungry later in the flight I could chose from a list of kitchen snacks that ranged from a humble club sandwich to lobster-flavoured popcorn. Only the limited size of the table provided cause for complaint. I was enjoying the overall service so far, but sought the opinion of more frequent business class travellers. Tony Keane, an Irishman on his seventh business class return flight with Etihad, said the award was well deserved. "It doesn't surprise me at all," he said. "The service and the whole care that they provide before the flight and on the flight and even after the flight are excellent. "For a business traveller such as myself, one of the big benefits is being picked up and taken to the airport. And the same at the other end. You don't have to fret about finding a taxi." Keane said that when he flies he looks for punctuality, comfort and cabin staff who are attentive without being overbearing. He agreed that the lounge was too busy for him to properly relax and suggested setting up a separate lounge for transit passengers. I was more interested in the functions of my hi-tech seat, which at the push of a button transformed into a fully flat bed with a built-in massage facility. After watching Rebel Without a Cause on my 15-inch screen, I dug the eye patch and ear plugs out from my goody bag, which also included balms and moisturisers, and drifted off to the only genuinely deep sleep I have ever had on a plane. The bed was narrow but had just enough room for my six-foot frame to fully stretch out. As we neared Dublin airport, I chatted to Mike and Avril Corrigan, an Irish couple who were returning home after the Dubai World Cup and flying Etihad business class for the first time. "I thought they did a good job," they said. "Some of the things weren't working on the seat, but the food was very good. It was very comfortable and the staff were lovely." Etihad's Baumgartner said he was aware that the service still had room for improvement. Upcoming additions include bigger tables, wider arm rests, more storage space and screens placed closer to the sitting area. The importance of business class to Etihad during the current downturn is evident. While economy class is about filling seats, business class offers an airline an opportunity to stand out from its competitors, he said. As Flight EY41 touched down in Dublin and I disembarked to a gloriously sunny spring day, the thought of getting back on a plane in only four hours' time for my return leg didn't seem as unappealing as it used to. rditcham@thenational.ae
