Design Museum's Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion exhibition opens ahead of fashion week

Show celebrates looks that have launched the careers of UK-based contemporary designers

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A controversial "swan dress" worn by Bjork at the Oscars in 2001 and Sam Smith's inflatable suit at this year's Brit Awards are among items to be displayed at a landmark exhibition at the Design Museum in London.

Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion opens on Saturday to coincide with London Fashion Week. A collaboration with British Fashion Council, the exhibition "tells the story of hundreds of fearless young designers who have transformed the fashion landscape, and will bring together exuberant, rebellious and radical garments," the Kensington museum said.

The show is also a celebration of the BFC's Newgen programme, an initiative that supports the best emerging fashion design talent.

Close to 100 looks will be featured, spanning debut and early collections, many of which have launched the careers of its UK-based designers.

Kerala-born Harri, who designed Smith's head-turning suit, is a London College of Fashion graduate who is known for his collections that feature inflatable latex trousers, dubbed by media as "balloon pants".

A Newgen shortlisted designer, he launched his eponymous label as soon as he graduated with a master of arts in menswear, and began working between London and New Delhi.

Last September, Harri, whose real name Harikrishnan Keezhathil Surendran Pillai, made his London Fashion Week debut, on the opening day of the spring/summer 2023 shows.

Bjork's swan dress was created by Macedonian designer Marjan Pejoski, and made headlines for its outrageous and outlandish statement – something the Icelandic musician said was always the intention. Pejoski is still a favourite among celebrities today.

Other looks featured in the exhibition include Harry Styles’ Steven Stokey-Daley outfit from his video for Golden and Rihanna's Molly Goddard blue tulle dress, which became a fashion sensation in 2017.

Collections and work by designers JW Anderson, Wales Bonner, Erdem, Christopher Kane, Simone Rocha and Russell Sage also feature among others. The items will be shown alongside films, drawings, memorabilia and never-before-seen archive materials from the designers.

Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion runs at the Design Museum until February 11, 2024. Details about tickets and opening hours are available at designmuseum.org

Updated: September 11, 2023, 2:25 PM