x Abu Dhabi, UAESunday 23 July 2017

Wedding dress was designed by McQueen

Sarah Burton, designer of Kate's wedding dress, worked closely with bride on ivory and lace gown.

Kate Middleton waves as she arrives at Westminster Abbey for her wedding in London.
Kate Middleton waves as she arrives at Westminster Abbey for her wedding in London.

LONDON // The mystery is now over. Sarah Burton, creative director of the London fashion house Alexander McQueen, designed the wedding dress Kate Middleton wore yesterday, a stunning ivory and lace dress with a light, hand-embroidered veil held by a tiara lent by the queen.

Ms Burton, 36, had long been tipped for the commission, but palace officials had remained tight-lipped right up until the moment Ms Middleton stepped out of the car.

Smiling broadly and waving to the cheering crowd, the 29-year-old also clutched a bouquet of flowers that included sweet william. Her bridegroom showed his appreciation by mouthing to her: "You look beautiful."

Palace officials said the bride had "worked closely" with Ms Burton in formulating the design, which she wanted to "combine tradition and modernity".

"It's a bridal gown of very refined detail, much more refined than the one Diana wore" at her marriage to Prince William's father Prince Charles in 1981, commented Karl Lagerfeld, the German couturier.

"It's very pretty, and relatively classic, but that goes with the decor, with a little touch of the 1950s that recalls Marilyn Monroe or Queen Elizabeth II's wedding dress."

The dress had long lace sleeves and an ivory satin bodice, narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips. The skirt resembled an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats and a train measuring 2.7 metres, relatively short by royal standards, particularly Diana's, which was 7.6 metres.

The train and bodice were adorned by delicate lace appliqué flowers, in a design that incorporated the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock - the four floral emblems of the United Kingdom.

The veil was made of layers of soft, ivory silk tulle with a trim of hand-embroidered flowers. It fell to just below Ms Middleton's waist, held in place by a Cartier tiara lent to her by Prince William's grandmother, Queen Elizabeth II.

Her earrings, made by Robinson Pelham, were diamond-set, stylised oak leaves, a reference to the Middleton family's new coat of arms, which includes acorns and oak leaves. They were a gift from her parents for her wedding day.

On her feet, she wore handmade shoes made of ivory duchesse satin and lace, made by the team at Alexander McQueen.

The flowers in Ms Middleton's bouquet were symbolic as well: lily of the valley, referring to the return of happiness; sweet william, which means gallantry; hyacinth, constancy of love; ivy, fidelity and marriage; and myrtle, love and marriage.

Ms Burton also created the dress for Ms Middleton's younger sister Pippa, 26, who was her maid of honour. It was simple and elegant, made of heavy ivory satin-based crêpe with the same button detail and lace trims as the bride's dress. "It has been the experience of a lifetime to work with Catherine Middleton to create her wedding dress, and I have enjoyed every moment of it," Ms Burton said, adding that it had been "such an incredible honour to be asked".

The dress was the work of skilled workmanship from across Britain, and Ms Burton paid tribute in her design to the arts and crafts tradition. Workers from the Royal School of Needlework helped make the dress, washing their hands every 30 minutes to keep the lace and threads pristine, and the needles were renewed every three hours to keep them sharp.

Ms Burton took over as creative director after Alexander Lee McQueen committed suicide in February 2010. Ms Burton had worked side by side with him for 14 years.

The dress is expected to spawn a thousand reproductions.

Elizabeth Emanuel, who created Diana's fairy-tale ivory silk taffeta wedding gown in 1981 with her husband, is still being asked to make copies.

* Agence France-Presse