Abu Dhabi, UAEThursday 27 February 2020

As UAE cafe culture booms, so does thirst for traditional beverages

Some believe that as western-style cafes become increasingly common, there should be more emphasis on traditional UAE beverages.
Baristas work at The Coffee Club in the Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi. Silvia Razgova / The National
Baristas work at The Coffee Club in the Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi. Silvia Razgova / The National

DUBAI // Dina Rashid can feel her elders’ discomfort over an “unending spread” of cafes serving coffee but not gahwa, or traditional Arabic brews.

“They want to preserve national culture, which is somewhat missing among the new wave of coffee and tea cafes around us,” the 33-year-old mother said of her family.

“Today you can see lots of vans selling karak tea and coffee, but have you ever seen a gahwa cafe?”

Changing lifestyles and an increasingly common cafe culture have led to the opening of more than 2,200 cafes in the UAE in the past two years. Industry analysts say there are plans to open 90 coffee shops and roasters over the next two years.

Sarah M, 34, an Emirati media professional in Abu Dhabi, said she missed gahwa cafes but realised that it was a result of the country’s diverse population.

“When the world has become the global village, one should not judge the country’s tradition and culture based on its business and street cafes,” she said.

“The roots of any cultural values lie at home, not on roads. Even when we go out and meet friends at the cafe, we also drink coffee and karak. But when we are home, we only drink gahwa.”

As long as gahwa remains an essential beverage in Emirati homes and a traditional drink served to guests, it will be part of the local culture, said Sarah.

The country’s cafe industry is estimated to be worth between US$350 million (Dh1.3 billion) and $400m, according to Anselm Godinho, managing director of a conference firm that organises the International Coffee and Tea Festival in Dubai.

Last year, the UAE spent $121m on coffee, an amount that is expected to grow 35 per cent over the next five years.

“The habit of drinking tea and coffee is predominantly social and these social networks have moved into cafes that offer an ambience that allows people from different walks of life to sit in a common area and feel that the space around them is theirs,” Mr Godinho said.

Gibraltar Francis, a barista at Travelers Cafe in Dubai’s Al Barsha area, typically serves 80 to 100 cups of coffee per day.

He says the love of coffee transcends nationality.

“Most of my customers are tourists and executives working in the nearby offices,” said the Filipino, 31, who has been serving up coffee for more than seven years.

“Even when it is 45 degrees outside, people still prefer strong coffee over a cold drink, which is something very amazing in Dubai.”

But some believe that beverages more traditional to the UAE – such as karak, a strong Indian tea with milk, or zafrani tea, a saffron tea with milk – could become as popular as western coffee.

Foreigners often choose traditional beverages, says Amit Kumar, operations manager of Cha Cha Chai, a chain of tea cafes that opened three years ago.

“Although locals have been drinking gahwa over the years, these days, it really isn’t surprising to see a Filipino or an Arab enjoying a cup of karak chai or zafrani tea, as different cultural habits have integrated extensively in the UAE,” he said.

akhaishgi@thenational.ae

Updated: October 14, 2016 04:00 AM

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