World Cup Diary Day 4: Missing spirit can be found in Brazil’s north-east

Gary Meenaghan reports from Fortaleza about the joy and anticipation for the 2014 World Cup that can be found in Brazil's north-east.

A boy runs in a decorated street in Fortaleza, Brazil. EPA
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FORTALEZA // It is said that everything takes longer in Brazil’s north-east.

It is a slow pace of life here, the result of a population more accustomed to kicking balls on the beach and seeking shade from the oppressive sun than working in an office or to tightly enforced deadlines.

“Nordestinos” even speak slower; their Portuguese accents becoming discernible to even the most novice of language students

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Yet in the case of the World Cup, the north-east has outdone the country’s more-developed south. Three of the region’s four stadiums – Fortaleza, Recife and Salvador – were finished in time for last year’s Confederations Cup, while the host cities have embraced the Fifa event wholeheartedly.

On the route to the Arena Castelao in Fortaleza yesterday, streets were lined with ticker tape while road markings – and entire houses – were painted in yellow, green and blue.

A giant festive light display pinned on the wall of a shopping mall showed the silhouette of Cafu hoisting aloft a golden trophy.

The previous evening on the beachfront at Praia do Meireles, Costa Ricans and Uruguayans watched together as four Brazilians played out an engrossing game of foot-volley (which included an audacious overhead kick by a talented teenage girl).

Along the street, a local trickster dived through a hula-hoop lined with sharp knives, while old women sold acaraje, a traditional deep-fried fritter filled with shrimps, black-eyed peas and hot sauce. (It is delicious, albeit unhealthy).

The mood was joyful and anticipatory. Yesterday’s game was the first of six that Fortaleza will host, although it is unlikely any will be deemed more important than that which takes place on Tuesday.

Brazil are coming to town to face Mexico – the famous north-east hospitality awaits them.

gmeenaghan@thenational.ae

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