x Abu Dhabi, UAEFriday 19 January 2018

Paris Haute Couture Week: Schiaparelli’s controlled eccentricity

A model presents a creation by designer Marco Zanini for fashion house Schiaparelli as part of the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 fashion collections in Paris July 7, 2014.   REUTERS/Philippe Wojazer (FRANCE  - Tags: FASHION)
A model presents a creation by designer Marco Zanini for fashion house Schiaparelli as part of the Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2014-2015 fashion collections in Paris July 7, 2014. REUTERS/Philippe Wojazer (FRANCE - Tags: FASHION)

The golden age of Elsa Schiaparelli — the 1930s and ‘40s — were revisited in the second outing for the age-old house, which relaunched last year to mixed reviews.

This season at Paris Haute Couture Week, the designer Marco Zanini tried hard to emulate the eccentricity of the house founder, whose business folded following World War II, by mixing up contrasting styles or deceptive material.

He found some success. In a striking look, exaggerated fur shoulders harking from the ‘40s were pieced on a leopard-print double-breasted coat with tubular sleeves. Glycerine-glazed black ostrich feathers elsewhere made a cool bolero resemble monkey fur.

But the abundant use of embroidery and decorations, like a try-hard clown’s hat, made it feel like the talented Zanini was not always at complete ease and made the eccentricity look a tad controlled.

Still, the leopard-print catwalk was great fun.