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Abu Dhabi, UAEFriday 17 August 2018

My Kind of Place: Rishikesh, India

Made famous by The Beatles in the late 1960s, this small town offers big rewards

The Ganges River at sunset in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images
The Ganges River at sunset in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images

Why Rishikesh?

Known as the yoga capital of India, Rishikesh is a small town by the River Ganges, at the foothills of the Himalayas. Indians and foreigners alike flock here for the fresh mountain air and the laid-back vibe.

Rishikesh found itself a place on the global map when The Beatles went here in search of nirvana at the ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in the late 1960s. Since then, it has attracted both leisure travellers and soul searchers by the droves. While the former will find an adrenalin boost with white-water rafting on the rapids, those who are seeking spiritual solace head straight to the ashrams lining the river.

And fans of The Beatles now have special reason to follow in the footsteps of their icons, with the recent reopening of Chaurasi Kutia – also known as Beatles Ashram – inside the Rajaji National Park. Although much of the ashram itself is still in a dilapidated condition, the striking artwork on the walls of the main yoga halls are worth the trip.

An abandoned Hindu monastery in Rishikesh that was once home to the Beatles has become a place of pilgrimage for music fans and yogis seeking enlightenment. Barcroft Media via Getty Images
An abandoned Hindu monastery in Rishikesh that was once home to the Beatles has become a place of pilgrimage for music fans and yogis seeking enlightenment. Barcroft Media via Getty Images

Rishikesh really comes to life early in the year during the International Yoga Festival organised by the Parmarth Niketan Ashram (from March 1 to 7 this year). But even without the festival, every ashram in town offers a version of yoga, either as a course or individual sessions.

Yoga school sign, Muni Ki Reti, sometimes known as Lakshman Jhula,  Rishikesh area,Tehri Garhwal district, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images
Yoga school sign, Muni Ki Reti, sometimes known as Lakshman Jhula, Rishikesh area,Tehri Garhwal district, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images

A comfortable bed

Located right by the river, far away from the madness of the main town, Glasshouse on the Ganges is a classy boutique property from the Neemrana chain of “non hotels”. With tents and cottages, the hotel is right in the midst of a fruit orchard and comes with a private sandy beach. Cottages cost from 11,500 rupees (Dh665), including breakfast and taxes.

Aloha on the Ganges and Ganga Kinare are closer to the action, offering daily yoga sessions, spa packages and plenty of outdoor activities to keep you busy during the day. All the rooms in Ganga Kinare (and some at Aloha) come with lovely river views, with Aloha also setting up luxury tents along the banks in the warmer months. Double rooms cost from 5,000 rupees (Dh289).

Find your feet

The throbbing heart of Rishikesh lies on and between the two suspension bridges over the Ganges, known as Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula. Named after the two main characters of Hindu epic Ramayana, these bridges form the connection between hareas where locals live and tourists visit.

Start your exploration from the Pumpernickel German Bakery end of Lakshman Jhula, wriggling through the sacred cows and selfie sticks on the bridge, also adeptly avoiding the motorbikes zooming from both sides. At the other end, take time to browse through the dozens of coffee shops, boutiques and yoga studios lining the crowded lanes, before heading towards Ram Jhula, two kilometres away on the right. Although this route takes you through quiet, inner lanes in the middle, it is a good way to get a feel for the way the town has woven its daily life around the hum of curious visitors.

Closer to Ram Jhula, the buzz resumes, with the appearance of the popular Chotiwala restaurants, legendary for their local food. On these back lanes, vendors sell fresh and hot nankhatai cookies straight out of makeshift ovens, while children pester tourists to buy tiny wheat balls to feed the mahseer fish waiting eagerly down below in the river.

Meet the locals

The Ganga Aarti at the ghats – a daily ritual of respect to the river – is not just a way of worship but also an occasion for everyone to congregate. The ceremony with massive lamps usually begins at sunset, which is about 6pm, and goes on for an hour.

Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images
Ganga Aarti at Triveni Ghat, Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, India. Getty Images

Book a table

As a holy town, the core of Rishikesh is strictly meat- and alcohol-free, but the variety of vegetarian food, both local and global, more than makes up for this. The town is known for its small cafes, where visitors go in search of a quick bite, but find themselves lingering over their lassi to talk with other travellers from all over the world. An old favourite – for its ambience and not particularly the service – is the Pumpernickel German Bakery at one end of Lakshman Jhula.

The more upmarket options in Rishikesh are located within hotels: Holywater at Ganga Kinare and The Sitting Elephant at EllBee Ganga View, for the food and the view. Prices are moderate, and the Indian dishes, including the substantial thali, are particularly recommended.

Shopper’s paradise

Polish your bargaining skills on the lanes of Rishikesh along Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula, where the colourful ethnic clothes, shoes and bags are irresistible. There are also several shops selling CDs, books and assorted paraphernalia on yoga.

A souvenir shop in Rishikesh in the Himalayan foothills. Getty Images
A souvenir shop in Rishikesh in the Himalayan foothills. Getty Images

What to avoid

As with other temple towns in India, touts are plentiful on the streets of Rishikesh, offering tourists easy and cheap access to everything from special prayers at local temples to herbal delights straight from the Himalayas. Steer clear of any such unsolicited offers.

Don’t miss

If you would prefer to avoid the traditional holy dip in the river, go for a thrilling zip 60-metres above it instead with a zip line adventure with Flying Fox. The hour-long activity happens at Shivpuri, close to Rishikesh, with the swirling waters of the Ganges below and the snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas ahead for company.

Getting there

Air India, Jet Airways, Emirates and Etihad fly from the UAE to Delhi from 18,000 rupees (Dh790) return, including taxes.

From there, it’s a short connecting domestic flight on to Dehradun (from 6,000 rupees [Dh347]), from where Rishikesh is less than an hour’s drive away.

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Read more:

Three weeks hiking in Mustang, Nepal

My Kind of Place: Leh, Ladakh, India

Passage to India: a visit to Murshidabad, West Bengal

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