I arrived in Kyoto on time, as expected from a Japanese bullet train. I stayed in the same chain of hostels throughout Japan, K's House (kshouse.jp). Although I found the Kyoto branch to be more sociable than the Tokyo K's House, it had the same spotless rooms (the cleanest hostels I have stayed in) and modern interiors. The reception staff were extremely helpful, offering advice on what routes to take around the city as an induction. K's House (2,500 yen [Dh106] per night in a four-bed dorm) also offers cycle rentals for 700 yen (Dh30) per day, so I put down a deposit, chose a brightly-coloured bike, grabbed a map and began exploring Kyoto.
I had heard that Kyoto was the best place to spot traditional Japanese geisha, a dying breed becoming harder to come across. I headed to Gion, an area known for traditional teahouses and geisha clothing stores. I saw plenty of well-dressed professionals enter and exit small doors but, sadly, my geisha-spotting wasn't as successful as I'd hoped. It had been raining non-stop all day so I finished off the evening at a traditional Japanese bath house.
World Cup fever around the world was in full force by the time I had reached Japan, and although I thought I'd be missing out on watching the games back at home with my friends, I've actually preferred watching it around the world. The round-of-16 matches had just begun and the common room had Germans on one side and the English on the other. I also spotted Ghana and Netherlands flags being held aloft by a few groups on the sofa. After watching England's embarrassing defeat, we had all switched to team Japan by the end of the evening, including the Germans. Japan's trendiness is infectious like that.
Kyoto is certainly a more beautiful city than Tokyo, and it has all the elements of the traditional Japan depicted on TV; full of temples and gardens. I discovered a few hidden, ancient-looking pedestrian alleyways simply by walking around. A quick look at the skyline showed stunning temple roofs alongside the odd skyscraper or Kyoto tower. I'd already been to Tokyo Tower and had my dose of skyscrapers, so I focused on the temples. On my last day in Kyoto, I took a walking route (recommended by K's House) from temple to temple, saving the most impressive for last.
If you have time for only one temple visit in Kyoto, make sure it is to Kiyomizu-dera. Although it's a fair few flights of stairs to the top, the spectacular views of the hillsides and temple roofs are worth the trek. As I walked back to the hostel, I looked for a public toilet and stumbled across an alleyway where I spotted two geisha in conversation. I also just so happened to be carrying my Polaroid, so I politely asked for a photo. With true Japanese courtesy, they obliged. I took one more and handed them a copy to keep. I couldn't believe my luck.
Thanks to the speed of the bullet trains and my Japan Rail Pass, a quick day trip from Kyoto to Hiroshima was easy enough to manage. Despite the obvious turmoil and misfortune Hiroshima experienced, it was amazing to see the progress and rapid redevelopment the city has undergone in the past 50 years, with tall commercial blocks just across the road from where the atomic bomb struck only a generation ago. The museum is very well presented, as is the park surrounding the site of the strike. A word of warning to visitors - a day in Hiroshima's memorial park is emotionally draining, and if you were planning to head to a party the same day, it would be difficult not to look miserable.
More than the efficiency, the well-dressed locals, immaculately groomed commuters, hi-tech toilets or rows of vending machines, the thing that struck me most about Japan was the unconditionally respectful culture I encountered. Even a train leaving a platform or a bus leaving the station receives a sincere bow, wishing it a pleasant journey. My journey through Japan was, indeed, more than just a pleasant one. For these reasons, it's also an extremely safe place for single travellers. The question I've started to get asked by family and friends now is "What's been your favourite place so far?" I couldn't really stick to one answer before visiting Japan, but now I can. The only reason that would stop me from staying longer in Japan is the expense. Having lived in London and Abu Dhabi, I was expecting big city prices, but Tokyo is the most expensive place I have ever visited. From accommodation (despite booking into a hostel) to food to transport (with the exception of the Japan Rail Pass) to clothing, nothing comes cheap in Japan.
Next week: Ismat goes museum-hopping and shopping in Hong Kong, her next stop
