We catch up with the Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee ahead of his annual trunk show in Dubai.
Mukherjee's latest collection is 'very global yet very Indian'
What was the inspiration behind the Full Moon collection you'll be showing in the UAE?
My travels have culminated in this couture collection. In essence, it's five cities and five flavours: the straitjacket discipline of New York, the classic nostalgia of the British Raj in Calcutta, the subversive decadence of Berlin, the romance of Paris and the bohemian flair of Barcelona.
Over the past few years, I have been travelling extensively, studying cultural history and exploring new frontiers in embroidery and design, and have collected many original samples from markets across the world. All these elements have come together to create something very global yet very Indian.
You're known for putting a modern spin on the traditional sari. Do you believe saris have undergone a similar evolution to the abaya in recent years?
Heritage can only sustain itself if it is dynamic. Since India is changing so rapidly, it's only natural that the sari should evolve as well.
The sari is universally loved. In India, it spans all ages and has an extremely strong national identity. However, a lot of people don't wear one because the dressing process is cumbersome. Therefore, new avatars of the sari have developed in recent times.
Your silhouettes are incredibly slim fitting. Is this collection inaccessible to those above a European 38?
I must admit that some of the designs from New Moon are meant for smaller women and it was designed for a newer audience. We have a well-established clientele across sizes 30 to 42 and we dress women of all shapes and sizes. However, with New Moon, we deliberately aimed it at a much younger audience, who are body conscious and fashion forward.
Mukherjee's two-day trunk show will take place at Raffles hotel, Wafi City in Dubai on Thursday and Friday. For more information and to reserve your seat, email email@example.com or visit www.sabyasachi.com
Trunk show detailing:
- Russian needlepoint
- Provencal boutis
- Zardozi embroidery from Agra
- Kantha stitching from Bangladesh
- Block printing from Bengal and Rajasthan
- Embellished pashminas from Kashmir
- Chintz from the UK
- Toile de jouy from France