x Abu Dhabi, UAETuesday 25 July 2017

London Fashion Week: Day Two: Return to 1970s glam rock style

Models with frizzed long hair, wore billowing 1970s wide-leg flares at unsual venues for fashion shows.

Topshop chose the former Eurostar Terminal at Waterloo Station for the presentation of its Unique collection.
Topshop chose the former Eurostar Terminal at Waterloo Station for the presentation of its Unique collection.

The glam rock chick was reborn on the second day of London Fashion Week. Models with frizzed long hair, wearing billowing 1970s wide-leg flares, bodysuits with cut-outs and asymmetrical chiffon dresses set the tone at Topshop Unique, watched front row by the pop stars Lily Allen, Nicole Roberts from Girls Aloud and Pixie Geldof. Colours more usually associated with autumn - gold, ochre, olive and tan - were mixed in with sequins and sparkly fabrics in what could have been the glamorous stage wardrobe of Stevie Nicks circa 1975.

Osman Yousefzada used a similar palette but in high-contrast minimalist silhouettes with varying hemlines. Later, the maverick stylist-turned-fashion-star Henry Holland also picked up where Marc Jacobs had left off in New York, with a full-on 1970s-inspired collection featuring washed-out denim, leather metallics and flared trousers. Betty Jackson, a stalwart of London, was one of the few who resisted the urge to revisit the disco era. She referenced the 1940s, bringing her collection bang up to date with a modern sportswear edge.

Perforated leather wedges, drawstrings, high-shine cottons and abstract digitalised foliage prints were highlights here. London Fashion Week is not just about girls on the catwalk - or equally girls on film, with mini movies fast becoming the vital accessory of designers; it's also about choosing an extraordinary venue to get tongues wagging for all the right reasons. The luxury handbag designer Anya Hindmarch moored a wood-panelled 1920s pleasure cruiser on the Thames river close to Lambeth Palace to use as a temporary showroom, for her spring/summer 2011 collection. Accessories are a huge crowd-puller to London for buyers from global department stores and Hindmarch's did not disappoint. As well as re-working her best-selling "Carker" style (which, she confided, is the closest she has ever come to creating the perfect bag in dimension and design), she introduced her latest "Maxi Zip" style. This has a secure flap concealing compartments stamped helpfully with "lipstick", "phone" and "cards". It could equally have had "It-bag" stamped all over.

Equally impressive was the location of the Unique show. The glass-roofed former Eurostar terminal at Waterloo station designed by the British architect Sir Nicholas Grimshaw. The super-stylist Katie Grand styled this collection (she will also style Giles Deacon's comeback show on Tuesday), block-booking more than 40 models (almost twice the usual number) so no other designer could use the same girls. Stomping down the old train platform in giant wedge shoes, the effect was like an army of dolls. Someone later tweeted that the roof appeared to be vibrating as a result of the deafening Fleetwood Mac soundtrack. Rock 'n' roll.