Hotel insider: The Magdalen Chapter, Exeter, UK

This Devon destination is a hub of contemporary cool.

The Theatre room at The Magdalen Chapter hotel in Exeter, UK. Courtesy of Chapter Hotels
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The welcome

The hotel was built in the early 19th century as the West of England Eye Hospital, and the entrance, with its marble mosaic floors, still has a hint of institutional austerity. Instead of trying to rub out its history, the owners have worked with it, to provide a hub of contemporary cool. An old sign states that the visiting times for patients are on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday afternoons.

There is no reception desk, just a central signature artwork, The Font, sculpted out of an old oak tree and resembling a large nut, around which staff check in guests, on iPads. It's all very high-tech and friendly, if slightly chaotic.

The neighbourhood

Although the hotel is in the heart of the city, there is no sense of that. Set back from the main road and backing on to a children's playground, it was a surprise to find that the shops and attractive quayside, with its cafes and restaurants, are so close by. Exeter itself is a 20-minute drive from Exmouth, one of the prettiest parts of the UK. It is a two-hour direct train journey from London. Travellers coming from Heathrow can get the RailAir coach to Reading, avoiding London and saving 30 minutes on the journey.

The room

A triumph for the architects who have managed to convert the 59 bedrooms within the strictures of the building being listed. My room, like most, has two bathrooms, one on the left as you enter with shower, basin and loo, and another, past the bed and facing out to the street, with a self-standing bath, behind a curtain. Furniture is a mix of modern, shiny white and dark wood cupboards, against modern wallpaper. Blinds are made from grey velvet and the carpet and walls in the corridor are deep purple.

The scene

It only opened 12 weeks ago, but it's already buzzing every weekend. Its sister hotel in Cheltenham has established the brand as cool, contemporary, quirky and not overly expensive, and it attracts young couples and families looking for mini-breaks. Downstairs, there's lots of public space, two or three lounges and a cosy library, and most rooms have open fires. The restaurant and spa are both key attractions. The spa and outdoor pool are built on the former car park inside a pretty, walled garden.

The food

Food is good and inexpensive. A changing daily menu in the lounge and bar areas offers dishes such as soup, hot salads, smoked salmon and burgers, for between £5 (Dh28) and £12 (Dh68). The restaurant is theatre-style open, serving traditional British food and some interesting original dishes with a strong emphasis on fresh vegetables. Main courses are around £15 (Dh85). Breakfast is in the same place. The continental buffet is £8.50 (Dh50) and a cooked breakfast - full English, shakshuka (North African spiced, baked eggs), smoked haddock and poached egg - is £9.50 (Dh54), although it's usually included in the room rate.

The service

As is often the case with new hotels, the staff fall over themselves to be helpful. All guests are given an iPad, which can be used to order room service or view hotel information.

Loved

There is a generosity and thoughtfulness - a free minibar, stocked with soft drinks, and fresh milk to go with the Nespresso machine, a library with 750 books available to be borrowed, free Wi-Fi and use of an iPad all did so much to make me feel at home instead of, as in so many hotels, feeling fleeced. I also loved my facial at the spa.

Hated

Purple is not my favourite colour, although it's nice to get away once in a while from beige.

The verdict

Brilliant for a weekend break or as a base to explore Exmoor. Quirky enough to be fun but grounded enough to provide proper five-star service, and really good value.

The bottom line

Double rooms from £135 (Dh763) per night including taxes and breakfast. Magdalen Street, Exeter, Devon (www.themagdalenchapter.com; 0044 1392 281000)

weekend@thenational.ae

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