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Abu Dhabi, UAEWednesday 24 October 2018

Kitchen 'gran' central: the taste for family favourites has returned 

The tried and tested recipes our grandmothers pass on are being celebrated globally. We look at some projects that celebrate grannies' best

 

In the kitchen with Spanish granny Mercedes Lopez-Izquierdo. Ella Louise Sullivan 
In the kitchen with Spanish granny Mercedes Lopez-Izquierdo. Ella Louise Sullivan 

“My grandmother’s house was really a temple of culinary knowledge; I learned absolutely everything I know now about cooking in her kitchen,” says Mercedes Lopez-Izquierdo, the 86-year-old grandmother we’re currently preparing a Spanish-style cold, melon soup. She has swapped the more traditional grapes in “ajo blanco” for honey melon and has extolled the virtues of chilled soup in hot weather.

Forming an assembly line of crushing almonds, juicing melon and chopping garlic in her eccentrically styled (pattern-on-pattern-on-pattern) Madrid apartment, we’re given a history lesson on Franco’s post-war Spain.

It’s been a year since I began documenting the recipes and culinary techniques of the world’s grandmothers with my closest friend and creative director, Iska Lupton, as part of a project called Grand Dishes that sees us cook, laugh and dine with grannies as we gather their recipes and stories for a book we’re planning to publish.

There is no dish quite like that time-perfected by a grandmother. Say what you like about gourmet dining and 12-course tasting menus, but nothing will ever compare to your grandmother’s signature recipe, potent with nostalgia and charged with emotion.

Yiayia loves being in the kitchen, where she creates so many hearty family feasts.
Yiayia loves being in the kitchen, where she creates so many hearty family feasts. Ella Louise Sullivan

The project began with my own Greek “yiayia” and her lovingly prepared, hearty family feasts. Cinnamon-rich stifado, sweet-smelling pastitsada, sea bream dripping with lemon and olive oil marinade grilled over an open flame with oregano fries, stuffed peppers and tomatoes made from seasonal ingredients planted by the moon’s cycle and grown over the course of months by my grandmother. Every bite carries with it a feeling of being loved, knowing how much work (not just today’s cooking, but a lifetime of development) has gone into making these dishes.

Mercedes Lopez-Izquierdo has a strong talent for cooking. She shares a lavish lunch with her two daughters, and granddaughters. Ella Louise Sullivan 
Eight-six-year-old Spanish granny Mercedes Lopez-Izquierdo has a strong talent for cooking. Ella Louise Sullivan

It’s a sentiment shared by many and it seems that this year the foodie world has contracted granny fever. While we’ve been travelling to as many different grandmas as possible (this year in Spain, Greece, France, Italy, Croatia, Poland and Wales) to cook with, photograph and interview the women with a dish to share and a story to tell, others have been cooking up their own granny-inspired projects.

In France, Grandmas Project has become a sensation, focusing on sharing the culinary knowledge of grandmothers by inviting filmmakers from all over the world to submit films of their own granny’s meals – a kind of DIY cooking programme with the original culinary veterans, if you will. The project, kick-started in May 2015, has raised US$21,000 (Dh77,122) in 30 days. Since then, the team has generated huge interest, with their contributor network continually growing and the films on their channel becoming more diverse – documenting granny fare from India, to Serbia and Morocco, straight from their own kitchens.

Then there’s Pasta Grannies, the YouTube channel by Vicky Bennison, which documents a series of Italian “nonnas” as they make fresh pasta. Every Friday you can tune in to catch a new “nonna” teaching Pasta Grannies’ dedicated 324,000 subscribers exactly how to twist tortelloni, twirl out tagliatelle and knead, roll and shape the perfect pasta dough, all from scratch. This, too, has become something of a sensation this year, and it makes for hypnotic watching.

Jamie Oliver has loved Italian food since his early days as a pastry chef. His Jamie's Italian restaurants in the UAE have closed, but Jamie's Diner in JLT focuses on pizza. 
Even celebrity chefs like Jamie Oliver have a love for "cooking with granny"

Even celebrity foodies have become wise to the “cooking with granny” trend that has cemented itself this year. “When I travelled around Italy, I met so many amazing nonnas, their food was incredible and I wanted to take them all back home with me,” enthuses British chef Jamie Oliver, as he introduces his new Jamie Cooks Italy series. Christina Tosi, creator of the Milk Bar bakery in New York and Netflix’s 2018 series of Chef’s Table also pays tribute to grannies, proclaiming: “I love baking because it reminds of my grandmas and it makes that moment in life a little sweeter.”

*** EXCLUSIVE - VIDEO AVAILABLE *** GUDIVADA, INDIA - APRIL 8: Masthannamma, 106 years old, poses for a picture next to the traditional fish recipe she cooked with her Grandaughter Rajni, on April 8, 2017, in Gudivada, India. A 106-YEAR-OLD cook has become a YouTube sensation after her great grandson posts videos of her traditional dishes. Great grandmother Mastanamma has just celebrated her 106th birthday - making her one of the oldest YouTubers. Mastanamma - or Granny as she is lovingly known - has gained over 200,000 subscribers on her channel Country Foods thanks to great grandson Laxman for showing off her culinary skills. PHOTOGRAPH BY Chandra Sena / Barcroft Images London-T:+44 207 033 1031 E:hello@barcroftmedia.com - New York-T:+1 212 796 2458 E:hello@barcroftusa.com - New Delhi-T:+91 11 4053 2429 E:hello@barcroftindia.com www.barcroftmedia.com (Photo credit should read Chandra Sena / Barcroft Images / Barcroft Media via Getty Images)
Karre Masthannamma,106 years old, poses for a picture next to the traditional fish recipe she cooked with her Grandaughter Rajni in Gudivada, India. Getty Images

In India, 106-year-old grandmother Karre Mastanamma has become a YouTube hit after her grandson, Laxmann and his friend began filming her cooking signature Indian dishes over a coal fire. The videos of Granny Mastanamma, eyes twinkling and full of energy (watch her bashing spices using a pestle and mortar with the gusto of a 20-year-old trainee chef, in spite of the fact that she’s a centenarian) have been viewed more than 11 million times and Country Foods has become a viral sensation in India, with more than one million subscribers.

Grandmothers and their recipes are certainly having their moment and the age-old cooking techniques and processes of our matriarchs are appealing to us once again. Perhaps it’s because we live in a world in which food is either obsessively displayed in hyper-saturated Instagram images – something to be snapped and posted, rather than enjoyed along with a conversation at the dinner table. Or perhaps it’s because of our modern habit of “grabbing lunch” on the go, quickly wolfing it down at our desks, in front of the television or en route to a meeting.

“I have such fond memories of baking English classics like shortcrust pastry and lemon meringue with my own grandmother,” says Dubai resident Jenny Collins, who happens to have all four generations (including her grandmother, mother and daughter) in the UAE with her. “I often cook my grandmother’s recipes with my mother, as does my daughter. It helps to keep old traditions alive and combat the fast food lifestyle that is all too easily adopted. It also helps to build the family bond,” she says.

Sharing a lavish lunch at the dinner table with Mercedes, her two daughters and granddaughters after a morning of cooking, telling anecdotes and silly jokes across three generations, I realise that it’s a combination of this, keeping tradition alive and combating the ease of fast food, mixed with the nostalgia of smells and tastes so locked up in our own grandmothers’ kitchens, that stirred something within us this year.

It’s not just a memory of those special dishes that feed our bodies and souls driving the cooking with granny phenomenon; it’s the interactions with an elderly generation that we may have lost touch with; an acknowledgement that in spite of our fast-paced modern lives, one day, we too would like to cook as well as our grandmothers do.

If you have a grandmother in the UAE that Grand Dishes should cook with, reach out to the team here. Grand Dishes is to be published by Unbound.

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Read more

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Is Instagram ruining food? We talk to some of Dubai's top chefs

Why quinoa needs to become top of the crops in Egypt

Culinary postcards: five foodies on the best things they've eaten on holiday

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Recipes to try at home

Yiayia’s marinated sea bass and skordalia from Greece

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes (Serves 4)

Skordalia ingredients

10 medium floury potatoes

1 whole bulb garlic

100ml olive oil

Juice of two lemons

Method

▶ Peel the potatoes and boil them until soft.

▶ Peel all garlic cloves and bash them using a pestle and mortar until paste-like.

▶ Add the potatoes to the mortar if big enough or transfer garlic to a sturdy bowl with the potatoes and pour in a couple of generous glugs of olive oil.

▶ Bash / mash until smooth.

▶ Add the lemon juice and some water until it’s runny.

Marinated sea bass ingredients

4 medium sea bass

Salt flakes

2 tbsp dried oregano

15 tbsp olive oil

6 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

Juice of one lemon

Method

▶ Scale and gut the fish.

▶ With a sharp knife, make three to four incisions on each side of the fish then salt it.

▶ Prepare the marinade by combining the oregano, olive oil and garlic.

▶ Put the fish into the marinade, spooning the mix inside the fish for maximum coating.

▶ Cook the fish on the hob, barbecue or under the grill for eight to 10 minutes on each side.

▶ Squeeze the lemon juice over the fish and serve.

Greek salad ingredients

1 cucumber

1 tomato

1 red onion

1 handful of Kalamata olives

1 green pepper, horizontally sliced

Dried oregano to garnish

1 thick slice of feta cheese

Olive oil to dress

Dash of vinegar

Method

▶ Chop the cucumber, tomato and red onion and place in a bowl.

▶ Add the Kalamata olives.

▶ Garnish with a few green pepper slices and oregano and top with a huge slab of feta cheese.

▶ Pour over lashings of olive oil and a sprinkling of vinegar.

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Mercedes’ Ajo blanco con melon de miel (white garlic soup) from Spain

Mercedes’ Ajo blanco con melon de miel (white garlic)  Ella Louise Sullivan 
Mercedes’ Ajo blanco con melon de miel (white garlic)  Ella Louise Sullivan 

Preparation time: 30 minutes. No cooking required (Serves 8)

Ingredients

250g white bread (no crust)

150g raw almonds

2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

200g melon

2 tsp salt

2 tbsp vinegar

2/3 glass good olive oil

2 eggs

2 tbsp water

Method

▶ Soak the crustless white bread in water for 10 minutes.

▶ Squeeze the water out the bread a little and put it into a blender with the almonds, finely chopped garlic, melon, salt, vinegar, oil, eggs and a dash of water.

▶ If your blender is small, you may need to blend in two loads.

▶ Blend each batch of the mixture for at least four minutes

▶ Transfer into a bowl and put into the fridge for at least two hours before serving.

▶ It won’t be super-smooth because of the almonds, but it should be the consistency of single cream.