The location
Located at the Rosewood Hotel end of Galleria Mall on promenade level, Roberto’s Abu Dhabi has a refined warmth about it. Despite being a fine-dining restaurant, its outdoor terrace and separate lounge areas provide that stay-a-while comfort most people are looking for on a Friday. Both offer sweeping views over the water from Al Maryah Island toward the city, making it one of the best spots in Abu Dhabi.
The atmosphere
Compared with other Italian restaurants, Roberto’s doesn’t scream traditional Italian in its decor. Rome it’s not, it’s perhaps closer to the chic restaurants you’d find in Amalfi or Portofino. That being said, it is very comfortable, and the Italian staff themselves are full of flavour and pizzaz. Despite to the unusually gloomy day I attend, the majority of brunchers are seated in the outdoor terrace dining area — albeit with the bi-fold doors closed and temporary canvas roof shut. The main restaurant is mostly unoccupied, but this is partly due to the 60-guest cap, which I am told has been instigated to provide diners a civilised and personalised culinary experience. I love that head chef Francesco Guarracino makes regular appearances out on to the floor to chats to guests, and that some of the food is prepared in front of you and served fresh to your table — this is the Andiamo Brunch point of difference. The soft yet toe-tapping background music is just the right volume, and when we move into the lounge area afterward to have our coffee and dessert, the accompanying DJ beats provide for a relaxing laid-back vibe.
The food
In true Italian style there is plenty of food to get through. As I look over the menu, my dining partner heads straight for the crudo station, which is overflowing with fresh oysters she says are delicious. I am impressed to find that out of the three antipasti selections there are a multitude of dishes I can’t wait to try. After an initial run-through on how the Andiamo brunch works, and making our only menu choice of the day — our mains, a decision between fish or meat — it’s time to dive in.
The brunch starts fresh with the Tartare di Manzo (Wagyu beef tartare) made on a trolley right in front of us. It’s impressive to watch. The tartare is melt in the mouth, a great way to start. The best of the tasting plates that follow are the Trilogia di Crostacel (crab, lobster, king prawns with a light seafood sauce); the Polpo (slow-cooked roasted octopus, artichoke, cacio in pepe sauce); and the Fritto di Calamari, Gamberi, Zuchinni (fried calamari). One of the most visually appealing dishes is the Carciofo Ripieno di Burratta (slow-cooked artichoke with burrata inside).
Once our plates are cleared, we are given a “comfort serving” of linguine pasta and mushroom risotto. These two dishes up the Italian culinary ante further. The risotto, which is served from a big Parmesan wheel in front of us, ends up being the dish of the day for me — it was so tasty and just the right consistency. For mains the Bistecca di Vitello con Osso (char grilled veal chop with mushrooms) is worth a try, it’s big and meaty but lacks a little flavour, which would be easily solved by adding some sauce to the dish.
There are three fish dishes — Pesco Bianco (charcoal-grilled sea bass, bell peppers and potatoes), Coccio all’Acqua Pazza (gunard, cherry tomatoes and chilli sauce) and Grigliata di Gamberi (grilled prawns, lime, green chilli and baby spinach) — and three meat dishes — Costolette di Manzo (slow-cooked beef ribs), Bistecca di Vitello con Osso (char grilled veal chop with mushrooms) and Anatra con Mele e Riduzione di Vino Rosso (Confi duck leg, apples with a reduction) — to choose from.
My advice, as scrumptious as the dishes are, make sure you leave room for dessert because we’re told pastry chef Andrea Rocchi “doesn’t sleep at night — he spends all week preparing the dessert menu”. There is everything from marmalade-filled chocolate cigars to mini cheesecakes and glassy chocolate mousse.
Who’s it best for?
The perfect brunch for those looking to impress someone, or those who love beautifully, well-cooked food and have a penchant for fine-dining.
The verdict
A well-priced brunch with a unique food quality difference.
• Fridays 12-4pm, starting from Dh295 with soft beverages. Children from 6 to 12 years eat for Dh150. Roberto's Abu Dhabi is at The Rosewood Hotel, Al Maryah Island, Abu Dhabi. To book call 02 627 9009, email reservationsauh@robertos.ae or visit www.robertos.ae/abudhabi
The National was a guest of the restaurant.
mhealy@thenational.ae
