Dinner at the Burj Al Arab: Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara

Al Mahara restaurant in Dubai's Burj Al Arab. Courtesy Burj Al Arab
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The location:

The Burj Al Arab hotel is located on a man-made island, a short bridge ride from Dubai's mainland. It's situated between Jumeirah's Mina A'Salam and Jumeirah Beach Hotel. As you might expect, this isn't the type of glamorous establishment where you can turn up without a reservation, you'll need a reference code to glide past security.

Al Mahara restaurant is located on the ground floor of Burj Al Arab and to reach it you’ll be treated to a journey through the hotel’s iconic lobby, with its eye-catching aquariums, dancing fountains and vibrant atrium.

The atmosphere:

A lot has changed in the past year at Burj Al Arab and one of the biggest differences is probably the atmosphere at Al Mahara. It’s still a high-end dining establishment, albeit with a more relaxed vibe. Gone are the elaborate place settings and white tablecloths in place of minimalist chic crockery and glassware, giving the restaurant a younger look and feel.

The recent refurbishment at Al Mahara has thankfully remained true to the essence of the restaurant which still embodies fine dining and exceptional seafood. The music is low, just like the candlelight, and romantic tables are still dotted around the resplendent central aquarium with its newly-brightened coral and shoals of tropical fish.

The food:

Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara has been the talk of the town since the two star Michelin chef took the helm on September 24. Best-known for his pared-down, straight-forward approach to seafood, Outlaw’s menu showcases the best catches from Scottish, Irish and English waters.

My dining companion’s starter of seared yellowfin tuna was melt-in-the-mouth perfection and well balanced with pickled ginger carrots, onions and a hint of chilli. I plumped for citrus cured brill – unable to recall when I last saw the fish on a UAE menu – and its pairing with fragrant basil, salty anchovy and smoked almonds was spectacular.

To follow, my guest’s intermediate dish was a crispy lamb scrumpet, the sweet yet hearty flavour of which was complimented by a tangy red cabbage ketchup. I deliberately opted for chef Outlaw’s signature lobster risotto which proved to be the most memorable dish of the day. Pretty as a picture from the fiery lobster meat to the pearly carnaroli rice, orange segments and green scallions – it looked every inch as good as it tasted.

For mains, my guest rated the duck breast with shallots and pickled walnuts one of the most enjoyable dishes he’d had in recent years. Bold praise indeed for a seafood restaurant. Keeping things simple and to let the star ingredient shine, the duck was served with a dollop of silky parsnip puree and a mellow thyme sauce.

I, meanwhile, ordered the turbot – which although often grouped in the same family as brill – took on a different taste and texture entirely. The fillet, which was delicate in flavour and medium-firm, was dressed with wild nutty mushrooms and shavings of black truffle. The combo was a clever one and loyal to chef Outlaw’s mantra of fine ingredients served simply. My fish was accompanied by a buttery cauliflower puree and a crunchy baby gem salad.

With Outlaw’s sticky toffee pudding the stuff of legend in his three UK eateries, it was my instinctive choice for dessert. The sponge was light-as-air and a duo of dates – piped with apple jam – added new layers of sharp sweetness. My personal preference would have been to have the jug of single cream served on the side – like the clotted crème was - instead of it being poured onto the dessert, which diluted Outlaw’s fabulously indulgent signature sauce.

My guest chose the selection of three British cheeses with fig and apple chutney and raved about the treacle bread crackers and walnut-raisin bread.

Who’s it best for:

Seafood-fiends will love this restaurant as fish of royal status adorns the menu. Al Mahara has plush private dining rooms catering for large groups and is equally suited to couples looking for an intimate, gourmet dinner in aquatic surroundings.

The verdict:

It’s an iconic venue and the service is first rate. If you like seafood you should make Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara top of your list. The changes to the restaurant’s décor and fare are subtle yet significant, and will no doubt attract a new wave of diners. The set menu options – ranging from Dh450 for a three-course lunch to Dh650 for a four-course dinner – are not prohibitively expensive either. For the full experience, there’s always the option to check-in to a duplex suite with your own private butler - and have a chauffer-driven Rolls Royce drop you home again. After all, the Burj Al Arab isn’t referred to as a ‘seven-star’ hotel for nothing.

Nathan Outlaw at Al Mahara is open for lunch from 12:30pm – 3pm and from 7pm – 11:30pm for dinner. For bookings call 043017600, email BAARestaurants@jumeirah.com or click here.

The National was a guest of the venue.

rduane@thenational.ae