The location:
One word – breathtaking. At.mosphere’s new brunch is spread throughout its signature restaurant and lounge area on the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa. Both sides promise panoramic views of Dubai’s desert, sea and city-scape, so ensure your phone is fully charged because you’ll find yourself snapping the scenery as well as the food. Helping to set a sophisticated tone for the afternoon, a gifted live flautist provides the musical entertaiment.
The food:
Where to start? This is not so much a brunch, more a royal banquet. Chef Jerome Lagard showcases his best culinary offerings in one sitting and the menu is a mouthwatering marathon. Select starters are served to the table, others – namely, the caviar (Maison Kaviari), Alaskan King crab and oysters – are set up at a raw ice bar.
Be mindful, this is a brunch where you’ll need to pace yourself as more than 15 savoury dishes will be brought to your table over the course of four hours. Appetisers you must try include, Maran eggs Benedict and seasonal mushroom Hollandaise, a moorish veal pithivier, foie gras Maison Soulard and the Patagonian black cod with chorizo and Venere (black Venus rice) risotto.
Of the mains on display at the live stations, the most impressive was a colossal Wagyu beef leg which had been slow-roasted for 36-hours. It melted in the mouth and was perfectly accompanied by a Bordelaise sauce, velvety pomme purée and shavings of horseradish.
The prettiest and tastiest dish of the day for me, however, was the Obsiblue Shumai - a contemporary take on a traditional Chinese dumpling. It was filled with sweet blue shrimp from Nova Scotia and drizzled with a warming ginger and vinegar dressing. Light as a feather, aromatic and with a lingering heat – I would have eaten ten more, had I not a dizzying list of dishes still to get through.
Of the sweet offerings, At.mosphere’s classic French delights of tarte tatin, sesame macaroons and a spectacular Paris Brest, came up trumps. While standouts among the twenty artisanal cheeses were a firm raw-milk Alpine Beaufort, a nutty St. Nectaire from Auvergne and the creamiest of Provencal goats cheeses, Buchette de Manon.
The verdict:
For gourmands, this is the undisputed grande dame of brunches. The provenance of chef’s ingredients stands up to close scrutiny, with rare and exclusive produce characterising the fare from start to finish.
If you’re concerned about the sheer volume of food prepared and served exclusively to you as part of the brunch package, don’t be. While the procession of plates that will pass before your eyes is somewhat daunting, the dishes are not insurmountable thanks to considered portion size and the unhurried pace of the meal.
All in all, this is a very grown-up brunch in a spectacular setting and well worth booking for a special occasion - advisably, post-pay day.You’ll be dining out on the experience for weeks, in a tale that no doubt starts - “Brunch upon a time, at the top of the world’s tallest building...”
Brunch at At.mosphere in Dubai’s Burj Khalifa is held quarterly and runs from 12:30 to 4pm. Booking is esential and all reservations must be fully paid for in advance. Diners can choose from two packages, the first of which costs Dh880 and includes premium beverages and pairings. The second brunch deal, which includes soft drinks only, costs Dh680.
For more information and news of when the next quarterly brunch will take place go to www.atmosphereburjkhalifa.com or call 048883828.
