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Abu Dhabi, UAEFriday 14 December 2018

From Copenhagen to Kabul, the fashion events you need to know about 

You’ll know all about London, Milan, Paris and New York fashion weeks, but what about Lakme, Costa Rica and Copenhagen? We take a look at some lesser-known fashion events around the world

An Afghan model presents traditional clothes during a modelling show organised by Haqiqa Modeling, in Kabul, Afghanistan, 10 August 2017. EPA
An Afghan model presents traditional clothes during a modelling show organised by Haqiqa Modeling, in Kabul, Afghanistan, 10 August 2017. EPA

New York, London, Milan and Paris tend to dominate the fashion week spotlight. However, on lesser-­known runways around the world, designers are show­casing their wares to a highly connected and increasingly engaged audience. These platforms serve a dual purpose: they give local designers an opportunity to display their talent, and they often rope in big names to lend their expertise and raise the profile of the country in question.

The output, itself, is hearteningly diverse. From celebrating traditional attire to reinterpreting global trends, the collections are reflective of what fashion as a whole ought to stand for: a fun, flexible and forward-­looking ­industry accessible to every­one, everywhere. Case in point: these seven multifaceted shows, all of which took place this month.

Seoul Story Fashion Show, South Korea

Models present South Korean traditional dresses called Hanbok by designer Lee Yoon-Sook during the Seoul Story Fashion Show.  EPA/KIM HEE-CHUL
Models present South Korean traditional dresses called Hanbok by designer Lee Yoon-Sook during the Seoul Story Fashion Show. EPA

Hanbok, South Korean national dress, took centre stage at this year’s Seoul Story Fashion Show on August 19, owing to designer Lee Yoon-sook. The traditional clothing has also recently made an appearance on international runways, thanks to several designers, including, most famously, Karl Lagerfeld. It consists of a jeogori (jacket) and baji (trousers) for men, while women wear the jeogori with a wraparound chima (skirt), which is typically full and pleated. Lee also ­exerted his creative ­licence on the gat, the traditional horsehair headgear worn in the ­country, and sent models down the runway in both wide-brimmed and ­cylindrical hats, with lace veils and ­metallic prints, as well as with Japanese fans. Other designers, such as Han Man-soon, presented a diametrically opposite design aesthetic, putting the models in ­androgynous pant-suits, jackets and hats.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, Denmark

epa06137485 Models present creations by Danish label Ganni during the Copenhagen Fashion Week 2017, in Copenhagen, Denmark, 10 August 2017 (issued 11 August 2017). Spring/Summer 2018 collections are presented at the event.  EPA/SOFIE MATHIASSEN  DENMARK OUT
Models present creations by Danish label Ganni during the Copenhagen Fashion Week 2017, in Copenhagen, Denmark, 10 August 2017 EPA

Danish furniture may be known for its clean lines and pared-back functionality, but the country’s fashion output has evolved into a free-­flowing, fun-loving and colour-­heavy industry, as proved at Copenhagen Fashion Week, held from August 8 to 12. Newbie brand Ganni stole the show with its effortless layers, sweet floral prints and super-wide-leg denim flares. The Instagram-­favoured label, owned by gregarious husband-wife duo Nicolaj and Ditte Reffstrup, has been credited with redefining Scandi chic, by deliberately moving away from the androgynous looks long favoured by most Danish designers. Some of the other designers at this year’s event, which was held at venues ranging from warehouses to bridges, included newcomers Saks Potts and Astrid Andersen, as well as the more established Stine Goya and Baum und Pferdgarten.

Haqiqa Modelling Show, Kabul, Afghanistan

An Afghan model presents traditional clothes during a modelling show organised by Haqiqa Modeling, in Kabul, Afghanistan, 10 August 2017. EPA
An Afghan model presents traditional clothes during a modeling show organized by Haqiqa Modeling, in Kabul, Afghanistan, 10 August 2017 (issued 11 August 2017). The Haqiqa modeling group in Kabul has 26 members of which only six are girls. Due to security and traditional issues still women have their boundaries to participates such events. EPA

Unlike most of its fashion-­industry counterparts, the Kabul-based Haqiqa modelling group is made up of more men than women. In fact, there are only six female models in total. This is all the more reason to hail the group’s efforts to rise above the many restrictions placed on women in Afghanistan. On August 10, amid heavily armed security guards, the group presented its first all-Afghan fashion show to 100 guests in a private villa. Organiser and designer Ajmal Haqiqi, 22, and designer Atefa Fasihi, 21, showcased the ethnic clothing typical of the country’s two tribes: Tajik and Hazara. This included bright, embroidered ­tunics, perahan tunban pants, scarves, pakul and karakul turbans, shalwar-kameez and gand-e-Afghans, multi­coloured suits typically worn by women at weddings.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week of San José,

Costa Rica

epa06124455 Models present creations by the Spanish designer Custo Dalmau, of the brand Custo Barcelona, during the Mercedes Benz-Fashion Week of San Jose, Costa Rica, 03 August 2017. (issued 04 August 2017)  EPA/Jeffrey Arguedas
Models present creations by the Spanish designer Custo Dalmau, of the brand Custo Barcelona, during the Mercedes Benz-Fashion Week of San Jose, Costa Rica, 03 August 2017. EPA

The fifth San José Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week took place at the Inter­continental Hotel in Escazú in the first week of August, to coincide with Costa Rica’s first Fashion Summit. While the summit was lauded for its sustainable fashion efforts, the big draw during fashion week was Custo Dalmau. The Spanish designer presented 69 favourite looks from Custo Barcelona, a brand worn by the casts of Friends, Gossip Girls and Sex and the City, and best known for its fusion of colours and fabrics. The ­presentation also included some of the looks that the designer will show during New York Fashion Week next month. Dalmau was joined by Costa Rican designers Jennifer Lang, Rob Chamaeleo and Fabrizzio Berrocal, as well as international names such as Shantall Lacayo from Nicaragua, Mexican fashion designer Alexia Ulibarri, Spain’s bridalwear expert Pilar Sáinz, Guatemalan suit maker Saúl E Méndez and Chilean designer Consuelo Melo, ­creative director of Muss Muss, who received the S Pellegrino award this year.

Orinoca fashion show, Andamarca, Bolivia

epa06152562 Bolivian women aymaras participate in a fashion show in Orinoca, Bolivia, 19 August 2017.  EPA/MARTIN ALIPAZ
Bolivian women aymaras participate in a fashion show in Orinoca, Bolivia. EPA

On August 19, indigenous aymara women, also known as cholitas, walked down a makeshift runway outside the Museum of the Democratic and Cultural Revolution, dedicated to the life of Bolivian president Evo Morales in his home town of Orinoca. The event was put together by the Promociones Rosario modelling school, one of the only bodies that hosts regular shows and parades to further the country’s fledgling fashion industry. This year’s event showcased the different elements of a cholita’s dress: bowler hat, mountain-­climbing boots, colourful blouse and pollera (skirt), a blanket doubling as a shawl, and long hair typically ­collected in two braids.

Lakmé Fashion Week, Mumbai, India

An Indian model showcases creations by designer Nachiket Barve at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Winter/Festive 2017 in Mumbai on August 19, 2017.
Lakme Fashion Week is taking place in Mumbai from August 16-20. / AFP PHOTO / Sujit Jaiswal
An Indian model showcases creations by designer Nachiket Barve at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Winter/Festive 2017 in Mumbai on August 19, 2017.Lakme Fashion Week which took place in Mumbai. AFP

Fashion and Bollywood are inextricably linked in India, with many celebrities doubling as models during the country’s biannual Lakmé Fashion Week. This year was no different, with Jacqueline Fernandez, Ileana D’Cruz, Malaika Arora, Dia Mirza, Kriti Sanon, Nargis Fakhri, Saiyami Kher and Shraddha Kapoor taking to the runway. Bollywood favourite and bridalwear specialist Manish ­Malhotra and Paris-based Manish Arora were this season’s main acts. Fashion-­forward actor Ranveer Singh, who walked for Malhotra at India Couture Week in Delhi last month, turned up to the Mumbai show in a shimmering rainbow-hued jacket, even jumping up on the runway before Arora’s show began. The line-up also included other big-name designers such as Nachiket Barve, Sanjay Garg, Paras Modi, Rahul Mishra, Antar-Agni and Anushree Reddy. Most heartening, perhaps, was Goan designer Wendell Rodricks’s layered collection, which was carried down the runway by plus-sized male and female models. Lakmé Fashion Week took place from August 16 to 20 at various venues across Mumbai, including the recently refurbished Royal Opera House.

Chapeau & Mosfur 2017, Russia

epa06148500 A model presents a creation by Russian fashion club Millinery during Chapeau 2017, the largest international specialized exhibition of headwear and accessories, in Moscow, Russia, 17 August 2017. The event runs from 17 to 20 August.  EPA/SERGEI ILNITSKY
A model presents a creation by Russian fashion club Millinery during Chapeau 2017, the largest international specialized exhibition of headwear and accessories, in Moscow, Russia, 17 August 2017. The event runs from 17 to 20 August. EPA

Famed fashion ­designer Vyacheslav “Slava” Zaitsev, known as the “Christian Dior of Russia” presented a new collection (and took a rare bow) on the Chapeau & ­Mosfur 2017 runway in ­Moscow on August 17. The 79-year-old designer, who was the first couturier permitted by the Soviet government to label his own clothing under the Dom Modi brand in the 1960s, is best known for his use of gilded ruffles, flounces and feathers, as seen on his ornate clothes, tiaras and ­turbans, all of which were in evidence at his Chapeau presentation. The annual headwear and accessories exhibition also displayed creations from Russian fashion club Millinery, which is known for its unusual and outlandish hats.

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