With its stunning views of Mount Vesuvius, Castel dell’ Ovo was the imposing 15th century backdrop for Dolce & Gabbana’s men’s Alta Sartoria couture show in Naples. The dress code was strictly black tie, and the well-heeled, sharp-suited British spy James Bond was the collection’s inspiration.
Shirley Bassey's resonant version of the 1964 Bond theme from Goldfinger heralded the start of the show, as models clad in gold, black and red-leather motorcycle suits strode the castle's sea-sprayed terrace.
D&G presented sophisticated suits and tuxedos that spanned 007’s style through the decades but also incorporated Neapolitan flourishes.
The city’s bespoke traditions hark back to 1351, when the Tailor’s Guild was established and Naples was a cultural and economic hub, setting the benchmark for fashion among Europe’s nobility.
Distinctive elements of Napoli’s iconic suit jackets borne out in Alta Sartoria this year included peaked lapels, double backstitching, soft deconstructed shoulders and pleated sleeves.
Tuxedos were partially lined with curved welt breast pockets, with single, double-breasted and three-piece creations with cropped trousers. Dress shirts were paired-down chic or flamboyantly ruffled, and models sported velvet slippers – both plain and heavily embroidered – in addition to lapel chains and signet rings.
The palette was glamorous to the last, with suits of resplendent gold, bronze, emerald green and pewter featuring alongside powder blue, alabaster and timeless jet black.
Mirroring Alta Moda, heavy fringing-trimmed pyjama suits and crustacean prints punctuated the collection. Neapolitan flora was hand-painted onto cigarette pants, while statement jackets boasted sequinned scenes of the south-western Italian coastline.
Sportswear took the form of palazzo pants, monochrome polo shirts and alligator shorts while D&G’s daywear-pajama suits and dressing gowns were awash with speedboat and racing-car motifs.
To the delight of VIP clients from the Middle East who attended the invitation-only event, Dolce and Gabbana’s seasonless Alta Sartoria featured kaftan after couture kaftan. The cut was generous, with deep side-splits revealing loosely tailored matching trousers beneath.
There were kaftans for a man of all seasons, with shimmering silver pieces trimmed in black, geometric sequins in contrast to sand-coloured creations with sea-inspired prints.
Styling was elegant in its simplicity, with exotic moccasins and wayfarer sunglasses.
After the last model completed the circuit, Domenico and Stefano took their lap of honour as fireworks lit up the sky and Bassey's hit This is My Life rang out across the Gulf of Napoli.
“I always live moment to moment.” says Dolce.
“I live by the philosophy of being calm and happy ‘now’. My love and my work – that’s what relaxes me.
“I’m not waiting until all my work is finished to start enjoying myself and feeling fulfilled – because by then it will be far too late in my life.”
rduane@thenational.ae
