In pictures: Pitti Uomo a sartorial spectacle
June 25, 2013
Best trend: Longer and fuller shorts are being advocated by several designers. Unlike the pairs made for shooting hoops, this new variety is tailored and often pleated.
Stella Jean's vivid and exotic work brought together worlds at opposite ends of the spectrum, such as traditionally European striped shirts constructed using wax printing and fabric techniques from West Africa.
The waist is fixed and the leg billowing, as seen in the Onitsuka Tiger x Andrea Pompilio show.
Cleverly conceived, they look comfortable and so cool.
The shorts from the Kolor show stroke a balance between utility and eccentricity.
Best antithesis to summer: The Japanese label Kolor veered away from colour for the season of sun. Drab or debonair? At the very least these easy black looks could be recreated by any guy – and at any price.
The shy Kolor designer Junichi Abe layered together basic blacks in lightweight pieces, in everything from capes to hats.
Best back story: African ethnic patterns made a big splash in the collection of Stella Jean, who hails from Italy and Haiti.
Best collection: At MSGM, the Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti reintroduced tie-dye to the fashion world with a colourful sportswear line inspired by the 1990s skate and surf scene, as well as – curiously – the actors Brandon Walsh and Dylan McKay ???
Best hair: Right from the first runway show, we noticed that most models were sporting retro-inspired mops. As the week went by, the trend was sealed: there’s a move towards a thicker, tousled mane – a refreshing departure from waxed-up, slicked-back???
Best shoes: The big shoe story at Pitti was soft slippers and graphic loafers. Camo, lush floral and animal prints cropped up in shoe lines all over the fair.
Best accessories: While pocket squares and ties were all-around popular, there was a particular accessory combo adapted by many of the attendees: the hat-sunglasses-moustache look seemed to be on the trend ascent. All the better to catch the humidity.
Best presentation: Unveiling his new line, Turkey’s Serdar Uzuntas staged a game of checkers featuring models donned in his designs. Using a soft but strong palette, Uzuntas paired tailored blazers and shirts with shorts – apt for the scorching weath???
Best section: Turkey was this season’s guest nation at Pitti Uomo – or “Seven Gentlemen of Istanbul by Seven Designers from the City on Seven Hills”, as the section was named. Turkish textiles were present across the work of the featured artists.?