Fashion of the '50s is back, but there are pitfalls to its girlie style

Some trends refuse to go away. At the most they lie low for a while, ready to make their next appearance, but they never really disappear.

Take the 1950s. Modern culture is fascinated with the social movements of the time, such as the birth of rock 'n' roll and the sock hop. This summer's catwalks were full of 50s-inspired nostalgia. Prada's collection paid tribute to the 1950s American car industry while Jil Sander, Karen Walker and Rochas took a more feminine role, with swing skirts, frivolous prints and cat's eye sunglasses. Designers seemed to have glossed over the gloomy times completely (something the fashion industry does rather well), providing us with dreams of a brighter and more affluent future. Be it Marc Jacobs and Viktor & Rolf T-shirts emblazoned with the Stars and Stripes or Miu Miu's patchwork, this summer the fashion world is dipping into all things America.

The problem is that anything overly girlie tends to put us off a little. There is a sickly sweetness to the bubble-gum trend. Shades of pretty, sugary pinks, baby blues and powdery purples turn away those who want to be taken seriously - something that shouldn't necessarily be the case. Form fitted waists and full, waist-to-knee circle skirts give a perfect hit of retro Americana (not to mention the shape's added bonus of skimming the bulges). If you worry about appearing a little "costumey", try a loosely fitted pair of trousers with a neat, white tucked-in blouse and a boxy leather jacket.

Mix soft pinks and blues with a flash of coral, taupe or nude. If nude tones are lost on you, try pleats, ruffles or bows for something with a little more bite. Start by giving a nod to the trend rather than the whole thing at once. Try a high-waisted skirt, a shirt with a round collar and covered buttons or a pastel round-necked fine knit. What we want to avoid is looking like some kind of extra from I Love Lucy.

In terms of fabric, there are two ways to go, and no in-between. A good quality silk captures the romantic joie de vivre the season demands, while a stiff, good-quality wool will work for the few months that are not as warm. While sleek, sporty pieces may seem to wander a little from the vintage revival, adding in a tougher element will modernise the overall aesthetic. Instead of your normal black or brown leather accessories, go for a pale, grey suede or a light tan, or anything with an emblem - the decade was strong on iconographic associations. Make sure to keep everything well-polished and groomed: hair, nails and make-up should be simple but absolutely done.

The whole trend, like the era itself, is meant to hint of optimism, prosperity and fun. The coldest of hearts couldn't help but be melted (even if it is deemed a little predictable), for it is of an era that harks back to a more elegant time for all. A time before skinny jeans, T-shirts and battered leather jackets. A time when men dressed for dinner and women for pleasure. Think of Marilyn Monroe in Some Like It Hot and Jayne Mansfield in The Girl Can't Help It. These are girls that can't be argued about. Perhaps it's simply time to celebrate all things womanly. For somewhere, in fashion-land, that seems to have got lost.

ktrotter@thenational.ae

Trend-ometer

This week's highs and lows:

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