New York, New York
In a brick-walled space in Chelsea, blindingly illuminated by movie lights, Donna Karanís DKNY collection picked out all the great bits of the 80s love affair with the blue-collar New Yorker.
Kicking off to the sound of Nenaís 99 Luftballons (in German, natch), a series of no-nonsense urbanites walked out in functional dresses and trousersuits, soft, washed denim (particularly good as a boilersuit tied by the arms at the waist), and the stretchy bodies and casual pants of an off-duty dancer. A silver blouson jacket and sporty-styled long evening gowns in yellow mesh and neoprene, baseball caps, visors and even bumbags helped bump up the energy in this driven, purposeful and very wearable range.
Back at Lincoln Center, a huge queue formed to see the Erickson Beamon jewellery collection, shown on doll-like models being wheeled on platform trucks around a scaffolding set on which sat more models. The jewellery itself was somewhat subsumed by the set, but the standout pieces were large, jagged collars of laser-cut mirror or coloured perspex.