My National

My National

A savoury ice cream for the summer?

  |  July 10, 2012

I have a bit of a weakness for unusual product or ingredients, hence the item below finding its way into my shopping basket last week.

I have a bit of a weakness for unusual product or ingredients, hence the item below finding its way into my shopping basket last week.

The mustard ice cream is part of a "Heston from Waitrose" range that launched in the UK last year and the savoury flavour is something of a nod towards the scrambled egg and bacon version made famous at Heston Blumenthal's three Michelin-starred restaurant The Fat Duck. Incidentally, his tasting menu now kicks off with a dish featuring red cabbage gazpacho and Pommery grain mustard ice cream.

The ice cream is described as being "both sweet and savoury at the same time" and Bluementhal advises pairing it with chilled soups, cold meats and tomato salads. A 300ml tub cost me Dh16 (purchased from my local Spinneys) and the ice cream contains 76 calories, 5.3g fat, 3.3g saturated fat, 0.26g salt and 4.7g sugars per 1/6th of a pot.

But how does it taste? Well, as expected, really quite odd. The creamy, sweet flavour of a traditional custard base is very pronounced (it's still made with milk, cream, sugar and eggs, after all), but so too is the Pommery mustard. You can taste and detect the texture of the wholegrain mustard seeds, but there's no evidence of fiery heat. It's all rather perplexing and not, to me at least, particularly pleasant when eaten alone, but I can see that it might work well with gazpacho or even something hot and cheesy.

If you fancy creating a bit of a talking point at your next dinner party, it might be worth purchasing a pot, just don't settle down to watch a movie with it.

I also spotted his chocolate and rosemary ice cream which is described as "a marriage of rich dark chocolate with the green notes of rosemary", but alas, there was no sign of the salted caramel popcorn version, which sounds delicious.