Actually, Bangalore is easy-going

• Last Updated: November 19. 2009 9:30PM UAE / November 19. 2009 5:30PM GMT

My kind of place

Famous as India’s fast-paced tech hub, Shoba Narayan says her new home is pleasantly laid-back.

Why Bangalore

Three years ago, my family and I moved to India after nearly 20 years in the US. We chose Bangalore, not because we had family or friends here but because of its salubrious weather and welcoming, genteel people. Now that I am a Bangalorean, I am convinced we made the right choice. Bangalore offers a balance between Indian tradition and western cosmopolitanism. People here have an inherent politeness – they aren’t in-your-face like Delhi folks, or opportunists like Bombayites, or orthodox like Chennai people or brazen intellectuals like Kolkatans. Bangaloreans take it easy and believe in a philosophy of no worries – life’s simple pleasures, as it were. Everywhere we go, we Bangaloreans say: “Swalpa adjust maadi,” which means “please adjust.”

A comfortable bed

Bangalore has a lot of lovely hotels. The Oberoi Bangalore at the heart of MG Road, the city’s main drag is a leafy oasis. I love the Taj West End with its old trees and sprawling lawn reminiscent of the Bangalore of yore when it was rightly known as India’s “Garden City”. The Leela looks like a palace but is quite incongruous with its surroundings. Many high-profile weddings are conducted here. With hotel rates having crashed, a double room at all these hotels can be had for about US$150 (Dh550).

Find your feet

When I first moved here, I took a tour of the city with Bangalore Walks (Bangalorewalks.com). Modelled on London Walks, and run by Arun Pai, who still conducts weekend tours, Bangalore Walks is an eco- and exercise-friendly way to get to know Bangalore. You walk for four hours and then are treated to a scrumptious breakfast. The company offers three walks to different parts of the city and I would recommend them all. Commercial Street and Brigade Road near where I live are shopping hubs. In the evenings, all of young Bangalore seems to show up here to drink, shop and dine. A morning jog through Cubbon Park or Lalbagh, also known as Red Garden, is a good way to do as the locals do. On weekends, birdwatching groups, laughing clubs and dog-walkers all congregate here. To get a cross-section of Bangalore, go to the Forum or Garuda malls where families shop, teenagers huddle and lovers cuddle.

Meet the locals

At Koshy’s on St Mark’s Road of course. A much-loved coffee shop and restaurant, owned by the Koshy family for generations. The food is reasonably priced and organic when possible, but what makes Koshy’s special is the cast of characters it attracts, including Johrei healers, DJs, journalists, tourists and corporate types. It’s something like Lindy’s in New York. Coffee costs a buck and they will let you linger. On weekends, the appam and stew for $3 (Dh11) is a favourite. Sunny’s, through sheer longevity can lay claim to being Bangalore’s best continental restaurant and is a favourite among expats. I love its tangy spaghetti marinara that costs about $5 (Dh18). Caperberry, newer and with a light lunch for about $10 (Dh37), is a great spot for ladies who lunch. South Indies has vegetarian Indian food and its popular lunch buffet costs about $8 (Dh29). Mavalli Tiffin Room, or MTR, is another iconic eatery with many people taking a morning walk in Lalbagh garden and then ducking into MTR for a breakfast of $2 (Dh7) dosas.

Book a table

Jamavar at the Leela is an opulent spot where CEOs take visiting clients for Indian food in a cosseting setting. I prefer Zen in the same hotel for very good Japanese. Shiro at UB City Mall is Bangalore’s current hot spot. To try the chef’s teppanyaki table you’ll need to book in advance. But don’t worry if there’s a long wait for this pleasure, people go to Shiro for the drinks and setting anyway. Rim Naam at the Oberoi serves light Thai fare and an outstanding Sunday brunch for $35 (Dh129). With its flickering candles and undulating adobe walls, Olive Beach is a sexy place for Continental food. Try itspizzas for $9 (Dh33).

Shoppers’ paradise

Raintree, Cinnamon and Hidden Harmony are my favourite designer stores. All three stock the works of young Indian designers who do interesting things with silk, brocade and block prints. Malls here don’t have the sameness of the ones in the West. Locals and foreigners go to malls alike and they are a great venue for people-watching. I go to Sia Jewelry at Garuda mall for lovely costume jewellery. Krishniah Chetty has fabulous diamonds and antique Indian jewellery that cost a fortune. Street shopping for glass bangles, spangled hairclips and bindi-tattoos are one of the pleasures of Bangalore and Commercial Street has a bazaar-like ambience. Hatworks Boulevard is a beautifully restored bungalow that houses a series of shops. The area of Whitefield, which used to be the back of beyond is now part of the new Bangalore where it’s all happening. Or so Whitefield residents like to think. With it art galleries, pastry shops, boutiques, tea lounges, and gazebos, Lakeview Farms in Whitefield is a great place to spend a couple of hours.

What to avoid

Bangalore is an easy-going city that unfortunately is filled with snarling traffic so avoid making back-to-back appointments in different parts of the city. You will be late as will your guests. As in Latin America, the day rolls to a slow start so perish the thought of getting cracking at 8am. Shops on Commercial Street only open at 11am. Like much of Asia, expect to bargain but keep it real. I mean, how much are you overpaying for a sequined sandal that costs $15 in the first place? My rule is to not bargain with vendors on the street but always ask for “your best price” at pricey boutiques.

Don’t miss

The new NGMA (National Gallery for Modern Art) in a serene oasis in a lovely bungalow that offers respite from the cacophony on the streets.

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